We are thrilled to have carried Dasein Fragrance from the beginning. We are big fans of the creative process and unique attributes that perfumer, Sam Rader, has introduced to the world of scent. She is truly an artist when it comes to creating beautiful combinations of scent. Sam’s line of perfume is unique in that she releases a scent per season that she feels embodies the most magical aspects of each of the Seasons. Her first creations consisted of WINTER and SPRING which were both so different while maintaining a minimalist take on unisex scent. We are so excited to announce the arrival of her newest scent called SUMMER which contains notes of cilantro, grapefruit, jasmine, orange blossom and grass.
Rader says that “scent is the most visceral, primal part of any connection or exchange….smell is the only sense that bypasses the frontal lobes (rational thought) and goes straight to the limbic system.
Can you tell us a little about the inspiration behind your newest scent, Summer?
I wanted SUMMER unisex fragrance to conjure a pool party with delicious cocktails, with bikinis on bright blankets on the grass. This is definitely a unisex fragrance like all the rest, it smells quite musky on men somehow and sweeter on the ladies.
What is your design process like? How is it that you manage to bottle up your inspiration?
My first sketch of a fragrance is always in my head. If you want to cook dinner, you might think to yourself, "some white wine and sage and porcini mushrooms and cream...that would make a pretty yummy sauce." It's not that you've ever had a sauce exactly like that before, but you know what each of those ingredients taste like and you can imagine how those flavors would combine. That's what I do, but with smell. So for SUMMER I imagined what scents would pair well together and convey a bright sunny summer day...right off the bat I thought of cilantro and grapefruit, which are the two main notes in the scent. Then I rounded it out in my mind adding grass to bridge the cilantro to the grapefruit and jasmine and orange blossom to fill out the middle.
Once I know which notes I want in a scent, I order oils from dozens of suppliers. For example, for the scent I am working on now--AUTUMN unisex fragrance--I wanted coffee as a note. I ordered every coffee essential oil, coffee been extract, coffee isolate, and coffee CO2 extract I could find. I sniff each one and find my favorite. Then I do the same with all the other notes and start holding each of their scent strips together to see which oils clash or pair well together. Then I start mixing the oils one drop at a time to find the perfect balance. Some blends have come really easily, like SUMMER, but SPRING for example took me months of reworking to complete. Most of my scents have about 9-12 raw ingredients. I'm considered a minimalist in the perfume world. Some commercial perfumes can have 30-50 different elements.
Can you tell us a bit about your concept of "seasonal scents" and how we can best adjust our perfume style with the changing seasons?
I think scent is such a personal thing, I couldn't suggest what anyone else would want to do. I find myself gravitating toward the lighter, fresher more citrus-y scents when it's super hot. I don't want something that's gonna feel too heavy in the summer. And then I crave the darker, richer, more spicy scents in the winter. What I think has been interesting is since launching WINTER unisex fragrance (which is conifers, spice, lavender and woods) in late 2013, it has been a perennial seller. The numbers stay practically the same throughout all climates, seasons and regions. I didn't imagine that would be the case! I suppose when someone loves a scent, they just love it year round and don't care if it's seasonally appropriate. It's like shoes or bags that way. There are the kind of ladies who get new shoes and bags each season, and then there are the kind (like me) who fall in love with a bag and wear it 24/7 for years.
What do you feel is the best way to apply your fragrances? Specifically your newest scent, Summer?
I like to spritz my wrists, rub them together, then spritz my neck.
Of all your creations, do you have a personal favorite?
SUMMER is definitely my favorite creation thus far. It was born really easily and achieves exactly what I had hoped for. It's also really hot in LA right now and SUMMER is that perfect high note that settles easily on the skin and brightens the day. It's kind of an addictive scent, for me at least.
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